No Hang Finger Strength Protocol
Finger strength training using a loading device while seated, allowing precise control of load without the risks of traditional hangboard training
Bottom Line
Evidence-Based Take:
No Hang training is a legitimate, research-backed method for developing finger strength. Developed and studied by Eva Lopez, it allows precise loading of finger flexors without the injury risks of hanging. Well-established in the climbing community.
What the Evidence Shows:
- Finger strength gains: Yes, comparable to hangboard training
- Injury risk: Lower than traditional hanging
- Load precision: Excellent, measurable in kg
- Specificity: Trains finger flexors effectively
- Research base: Several studies, primarily from climbing science
Honest Assessment:
This is one of the more evidence-based training protocols in the grip/climbing world. Eva Lopez's research provides solid foundation. It's safer than hangboarding, allows precise progressive overload, and can be done anywhere. Excellent for climbers and anyone wanting grip strength.
Science
How It Works:
2024 Breakthrough - Abrahangs Study:
Emil Abrahamsson (Swedish pro climber) and Dr. Keith Baar (UC Davis collagen researcher) published a landmark study in November 2024 showing: - Submaximal "Abrahangs" protocol produced strength gains equivalent to max hangs - Combining both protocols showed additive effects - Based on Baar's collagen/tendon synthesis research - Gelatin + vitamin C before training may enhance adaptations
The Abrahangs Protocol:
- 10 seconds on, 50 seconds off
- 10 rounds (10 minutes total)
- Submaximal load (~70% max)
- Can be done on hangboard OR No Hang device
The Problem with Traditional Hangboards:
Traditional hangboard training requires hanging from edges: - Body weight is the minimum load - Hard to reduce load for beginners/injured - Fall risk if grip fails - Shoulder/elbow stress from hanging - Difficult to isolate fingers
The No Hang Solution:
A device (block/pinch device) sits on your lap or on weight. You pull up against it: - Load = weight on device (fully adjustable) - No falling risk - No shoulder/elbow hanging stress - Can train while seated - Precise progressive overload
Muscle Physiology:
Finger strength comes from forearm muscles: - Flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) - deep finger flexor - Flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS) - superficial flexor - Isometric training at specific angles builds strength
Eva Lopez Research:
Spanish climbing researcher Eva Lopez developed and studied this method: - Compared to traditional hangboard training - Found equivalent or superior strength gains - Lower injury rates - Better load control for periodization
Why Isometric Training Works:
- Finger flexors respond well to isometric loading
- 7-10 second hangs optimal for strength
- Longer holds for endurance
- Angle-specific strength gains
Supporting Studies
1 peer-reviewed study
View all studies & compare research →Practical Protocol
Equipment Needed:
- No Hang device (Tension Block, Gripster, etc.)
- Weight plates or dumbbells
- Timer
- Training log
Basic Protocol (Eva Lopez Method):
Warm-up (Essential):
- General warm-up: 5-10 min light cardio
- Finger warm-up: Putty, easy squeezes
- Progressive loading: 50%, 70%, 85% of training weight
- Rest 1-2 min between warm-up sets
Maximum Strength Protocol (Eva Lopez):
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Hang time | 10 seconds |
| Rest between hangs | 3 minutes |
| Sets | 3-5 |
| Sessions per week | 2-3 |
| Intensity | ~80-90% max |
Abrahangs Protocol (Abrahamsson/Baar 2024):
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Hang time | 10 seconds |
| Rest between hangs | 50 seconds |
| Rounds | 10 (total 10 min) |
| Sessions per week | 2-3 |
| Intensity | ~70% max (submaximal) |
Collagen Enhancement (Optional):
- Take 15g gelatin or hydrolyzed collagen
- With 50mg vitamin C
- 1 hour before training
- Based on Baar's tendon synthesis research
Which Protocol to Use:
- Max Hangs: Traditional, proven, higher intensity
- Abrahangs: Newer, submaximal, may be easier to recover from
- Both together: Study showed additive effects
Finding Your Max:
- Start with light weight
- Add weight each attempt
- Max = heaviest 10-sec hold with good form
- Train at 80-90% of this
Grip Positions:
| Position | Description | Focus |
|---|---|---|
| Half crimp | 90° first knuckle, flat second | Primary training position |
| Open hand | Fingers extended, slight curl | Tendon health, variety |
| Full crimp | Thumb wrapped over | Avoid for training (injury risk) |
| 3-finger drag | Index, middle, ring | Specific weakness |
| 2-finger pockets | Varies | Advanced, sport-specific |
Progression:
- Week 1-2: Find max, train at 80%
- Week 3-4: Add 2-5% if completing all sets
- Week 5-6: Test new max
- Repeat cycle
Sample Session:
- General warm-up: 5 min
- Finger warm-up: 5 min
- Progressive warm-up sets: 3 sets
- Working sets: 4 x 10 sec at 85% max
- 3 min rest between sets
- Cool down: Light stretching
Risks & Side Effects
Safety Profile:
Significantly safer than hangboard training when done correctly.
Potential Issues:
- Pulley injuries (A2, A4) - still possible with excessive load
- Tendinopathy from overtraining
- Joint pain if progressing too fast
- Skin tears (less common than hangboarding)
Injury Prevention:
- ALWAYS warm up thoroughly
- Progress load slowly (5% max per week)
- Listen to pain signals (stop immediately)
- Allow 48-72 hours between sessions
- Avoid full crimp position in training
Warning Signs (Stop Training):
- Sharp pain in fingers
- Popping or snapping sensation
- Swelling in finger joints
- Pain that persists after session
Contraindications:
- Existing finger/pulley injuries (heal first)
- Arthritis in fingers (consult doctor)
- Very young climbers (growth plates)
Best Practices:
- Quality over quantity
- Never train through pain
- Take deload weeks
- Balance with antagonist training
Risk Level: Low to moderate with proper protocol; much safer than hangboarding
Who It's For
Most Likely to Benefit:
- Rock climbers wanting finger strength
- Those recovering from finger injuries
- Beginners too weak for body-weight hangs
- Anyone wanting measurable grip training
- Martial artists (grip fighting)
Good Candidates:
- Climbers at any level
- People with shoulder/elbow issues (can't hang)
- Those wanting precise progressive overload
- Travelers (device is portable)
- Office workers (can train at desk)
May Not Need:
- Those not doing grip-intensive activities
- People with adequate grip for their sport
- Anyone without specific finger strength goals
Skip If:
- Active finger injuries
- Unwilling to follow protocol carefully
- Looking for quick fixes (takes months)
How to Track Results
What to Track:
| Date | Grip Position | Weight | Reps x Seconds | RPE | Notes |
|---|
Key Metrics:
- Maximum weight for 10-sec hold
- Working weight progression
- Any pain or discomfort
- Session RPE (rate of perceived exertion)
Progress Indicators:
- Max weight increasing monthly
- Same weight feeling easier
- Climbing performance improvement
- No injury occurrences
Testing Protocol (Every 4-6 weeks):
- Full rest day before
- Thorough warm-up
- Progressive attempts to find new max
- Record for each grip position trained
Top Products
Recommended Devices:
- Tension Block - Industry standard, quality edges
- Tension Grindstone - Multiple edge sizes
- Gripster - Budget-friendly option
- Lattice Rung - UK brand, research-backed
Accessories:
- Loading pin - For adding weight
- Finger tape - Skin protection
What to Look For:
- Consistent edge depth (18-20mm typical)
- Quality construction
- Comfortable texture
- Weight capacity sufficient for your needs
Cost Breakdown
Device Options:
| Device | Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Tension Block | $100-130 | Popular, quality |
| Tension Grindstone | $130-160 | Multiple edges |
| Gripster | $60-80 | Budget option |
| DIY solutions | $20-50 | Requires building |
Additional Equipment:
| Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| Weight plates | $20-100 |
| Loading pin | $20-40 |
| Timer app | Free |
Cost-Effectiveness:
Device pays for itself vs. gym hangboard access. Can train anywhere, anytime. Very good value for serious grip training.
Recommended Reading
Podcasts
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Discussed in Podcasts
6 curated moments from top health podcasts. Click any timestamp to play.
Emil's no-hang protocol produced massive strength gains
Emil Abrahamsson's light-loading no-hang protocol showed massive gains in max hang capacity without doing any max hangs, using the Crimped app data.
"but he's trading his shoes and his chalk for a white lab coat because we are sitting down with Dr. Keith Barr of UC Davis. He's an incredibly smart guy working in the world of connective tissue. And he was the one who originally did a paper about how tendons might respond favorably to light loading that Emil famously based his no hang protocol off of that he and his brother did"
Crimped app study validates no-hang protocols at scale
The study used hundreds of thousands of data points from the Crimped app to compare no-hang, max-hang, and control groups retrospectively.
"hundreds of thousands of points of data through the crimped app. And in doing so, they were able to retroactively, I think was the actual scientific term, look at climbers who had done the no-hang protocol, who have done max-hang protocols, and who have done nothing at all, and actually see what the impact was on these Abrahangs, these very lightweight 10 minutes a day or twice a day no-hangs, if you will, like feet on the ground,"
Dr. Tyler Nelson on isometric finger loading protocols
Nelson discusses isometric loading protocols for finger strength, covering how no-hang methods provide more precise load control than dynamic hanging.
"for climbers as well as the places that we climb. It's just truly the best chalk out there and you can try it risk-free to see for yourself that is how psyched they are to help you level up. Just enter code STRUGGLE20 at checkout to get 20% off your first order, chalk up less, and climb more with our friends over at Friction Labs. All right, let's get our digits warmed up for a max strength dose of Finger Training 2.0 with Dr. Tyler Nelson."
So next one I'm going to bring up is six and ten repeaters
So next one I'm going to bring up is six and ten repeaters. This one was popularized by Will Anglin.
"So next one I'm going to bring up is six and ten repeaters. This one was popularized by Will Anglin. Six seconds on, ten seconds off for reps of five. I like using like three total sets for one grip and then maybe one to two for your accessory grip. Now, this one I don't program often. I think it's from what I've seen, one of the more beneficial for max finger strength is But man, it just absolutely tanks you."
No-hang protocols for safe finger strength development
The episode covers how no-hang protocols allow climbers to build finger strength with precise load control and lower injury risk than traditional hangboard training.
"No-hang protocols allow precise load control without the injury risk of traditional hanging."
Comparing finger strength protocols for endurance
The episode compares intermittent and continuous loading strategies for developing climbing-specific finger endurance.
"for the entire eight weeks. And then one group did max added weight followed by intermittent hangs. Took me a while to understand all that because of the different nomenclature that you use, the max hangs versus mall and med. That confused me a little bit at first. Yeah, right. So, the max hangs was, yeah, maximal dead hangs with added weight. And then they did"
Who to Follow
Key Figures:
- Emil Abrahamsson - Swedish pro climber, developed Abrahangs protocol, viral YouTube content
- Dr. Keith Baar - UC Davis researcher, collagen/tendon science, co-author of 2024 study
- Eva Lopez - Spanish researcher, pioneered original max hang protocols
- Lattice Training - UK company with research-backed training
- Tom Randall & Ollie Torr - Lattice founders, climbing coaches
- Eric Hörst - Author, climbing performance expert
2024 Study Buzz:
- Featured on The Struggle Climbing Show podcast
- Emil's YouTube channel popularized the protocol
- Tim Ferriss connection through Baar's collagen research
Research Community:
- International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA)
- UC Davis Functional Molecular Biology Lab (Baar)
- Growing body of climbing-specific research
Climbing Community:
- Widely adopted by serious climbers
- Standard in climbing training programs
- Professional climbers use regularly
Synergies & Conflicts
Climbing Performance Stack:
- No Hang finger training (max strength)
- Hangboard repeaters (endurance)
- Campus board (power, advanced)
- Core training
- Antagonist exercises (push-ups, reverse wrist curls)
Grip Strength Stack:
- No Hang (finger strength)
- Wrist curls (forearm)
- Plate pinches (thumb/pinch)
- Thick bar work (open hand)
- Farmer's carries (grip endurance)
Injury Prevention Stack:
- No Hang (controlled loading)
- Finger extensor work (rubber bands)
- Rice bucket exercises
- Wrist mobility
- Adequate rest
Rehab Stack (Post-Injury):
- Very light No Hang (rebuilding)
- Gradual progression
- Finger glides and mobility
- Professional guidance recommended
What People Say
Why It's Popular:
The Reality:
No Hang training has become a standard tool for serious climbers. The ability to precisely control load and safely train finger strength makes it superior to traditional hangboarding for many purposes. Results take time but are consistent.
Who Uses It: