No Hang Finger Strength Protocol

How It Works:

2024 Breakthrough - Abrahangs Study:

Emil Abrahamsson (Swedish pro climber) and Dr. Keith Baar (UC Davis collagen researcher) published a landmark study in November 2024 showing: - Submaximal "Abrahangs" protocol produced strength gains equivalent to max hangs - Combining both protocols showed additive effects - Based on Baar's collagen/tendon synthesis research - Gelatin + vitamin C before training may enhance adaptations

The Abrahangs Protocol:

• 10 seconds on, 50 seconds off
• 10 rounds (10 minutes total)
• Submaximal load (~70% max)
• Can be done on hangboard OR No Hang device

The Problem with Traditional Hangboards:

Traditional hangboard training requires hanging from edges: - Body weight is the minimum load - Hard to reduce load for beginners/injured - Fall risk if grip fails - Shoulder/elbow stress from hanging - Difficult to isolate fingers

The No Hang Solution:

A device (block/pinch device) sits on your lap or on weight. You pull up against it: - Load = weight on device (fully adjustable) - No falling risk - No shoulder/elbow hanging stress - Can train while seated - Precise progressive overload

Muscle Physiology:

Finger strength comes from forearm muscles: - Flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) - deep finger flexor - Flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS) - superficial flexor - Isometric training at specific angles builds strength

Eva Lopez Research:

Spanish climbing researcher Eva Lopez developed and studied this method: - Compared to traditional hangboard training - Found equivalent or superior strength gains - Lower injury rates - Better load control for periodization

Why Isometric Training Works:

• Finger flexors respond well to isometric loading
• 7-10 second hangs optimal for strength
• Longer holds for endurance
• Angle-specific strength gains

Equipment Needed:

• No Hang device (Tension Block, Gripster, etc.)
• Weight plates or dumbbells
• Timer
• Training log

Basic Protocol (Eva Lopez Method):

Warm-up (Essential):

1. General warm-up: 5-10 min light cardio
2. Finger warm-up: Putty, easy squeezes
3. Progressive loading: 50%, 70%, 85% of training weight
4. Rest 1-2 min between warm-up sets

Maximum Strength Protocol (Eva Lopez):

Abrahangs Protocol (Abrahamsson/Baar 2024):

Collagen Enhancement (Optional):

• Take 15g gelatin or hydrolyzed collagen
• With 50mg vitamin C
• 1 hour before training
• Based on Baar's tendon synthesis research

Which Protocol to Use:

• Max Hangs: Traditional, proven, higher intensity
• Abrahangs: Newer, submaximal, may be easier to recover from
• Both together: Study showed additive effects

Finding Your Max:

1. Start with light weight
2. Add weight each attempt
3. Max = heaviest 10-sec hold with good form
4. Train at 80-90% of this

Grip Positions:

Progression:

• Week 1-2: Find max, train at 80%
• Week 3-4: Add 2-5% if completing all sets
• Week 5-6: Test new max
• Repeat cycle

Sample Session:

1. General warm-up: 5 min
2. Finger warm-up: 5 min
3. Progressive warm-up sets: 3 sets
4. Working sets: 4 x 10 sec at 85% max
5. 3 min rest between sets
6. Cool down: Light stretching

Safety Profile:

Significantly safer than hangboard training when done correctly.

Potential Issues:

• Pulley injuries (A2, A4) - still possible with excessive load
• Tendinopathy from overtraining
• Joint pain if progressing too fast
• Skin tears (less common than hangboarding)

Injury Prevention:

• ALWAYS warm up thoroughly
• Progress load slowly (5% max per week)
• Listen to pain signals (stop immediately)
• Allow 48-72 hours between sessions
• Avoid full crimp position in training

Warning Signs (Stop Training):

• Sharp pain in fingers
• Popping or snapping sensation
• Swelling in finger joints
• Pain that persists after session

Contraindications:

• Existing finger/pulley injuries (heal first)
• Arthritis in fingers (consult doctor)
• Very young climbers (growth plates)

Best Practices:

• Quality over quantity
• Never train through pain
• Take deload weeks
• Balance with antagonist training

Risk Level: Low to moderate with proper protocol; much safer than hangboarding

Most Likely to Benefit:

• Rock climbers wanting finger strength
• Those recovering from finger injuries
• Beginners too weak for body-weight hangs
• Anyone wanting measurable grip training
• Martial artists (grip fighting)

Good Candidates:

• Climbers at any level
• People with shoulder/elbow issues (can't hang)
• Those wanting precise progressive overload
• Travelers (device is portable)
• Office workers (can train at desk)

May Not Need:

• Those not doing grip-intensive activities
• People with adequate grip for their sport
• Anyone without specific finger strength goals

Skip If:

• Active finger injuries
• Unwilling to follow protocol carefully
• Looking for quick fixes (takes months)

What to Track:

Key Metrics:

• Maximum weight for 10-sec hold
• Working weight progression
• Any pain or discomfort
• Session RPE (rate of perceived exertion)

Progress Indicators:

• Max weight increasing monthly
• Same weight feeling easier
• Climbing performance improvement
• No injury occurrences

Testing Protocol (Every 4-6 weeks):

1. Full rest day before
2. Thorough warm-up
3. Progressive attempts to find new max
4. Record for each grip position trained

Recommended Devices:

• Tension Block - Industry standard, quality edges
• Tension Grindstone - Multiple edge sizes
• Gripster - Budget-friendly option
• Lattice Rung - UK brand, research-backed

Accessories:

• Loading pin - For adding weight
• Finger tape - Skin protection

What to Look For:

• Consistent edge depth (18-20mm typical)
• Quality construction
• Comfortable texture
• Weight capacity sufficient for your needs

Device Options:

Additional Equipment:

Cost-Effectiveness:

Device pays for itself vs. gym hangboard access. Can train anywhere, anytime. Very good value for serious grip training.

Key Figures:

• Emil Abrahamsson - Swedish pro climber, developed Abrahangs protocol, viral YouTube content
• Dr. Keith Baar - UC Davis researcher, collagen/tendon science, co-author of 2024 study
• Eva Lopez - Spanish researcher, pioneered original max hang protocols
• Lattice Training - UK company with research-backed training
• Tom Randall & Ollie Torr - Lattice founders, climbing coaches
• Eric Hörst - Author, climbing performance expert

2024 Study Buzz:

• Featured on The Struggle Climbing Show podcast
• Emil's YouTube channel popularized the protocol
• Tim Ferriss connection through Baar's collagen research

Research Community:

• International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA)
• UC Davis Functional Molecular Biology Lab (Baar)
• Growing body of climbing-specific research

Climbing Community:

• Widely adopted by serious climbers
• Standard in climbing training programs
• Professional climbers use regularly

Why It's Popular:

• Safer than hangboarding
• Measurable progress
• Can train anywhere
• Research-backed
• Works for all levels

The Reality:

No Hang training has become a standard tool for serious climbers. The ability to precisely control load and safely train finger strength makes it superior to traditional hangboarding for many purposes. Results take time but are consistent.

Who Uses It:

• Professional climbers
• Recreational climbers wanting improvement
• Coaches and trainers
• Rehab from finger injuries

Climbing Performance Stack:

• No Hang finger training (max strength)
• Hangboard repeaters (endurance)
• Campus board (power, advanced)
• Core training
• Antagonist exercises (push-ups, reverse wrist curls)

Grip Strength Stack:

• No Hang (finger strength)
• Wrist curls (forearm)
• Plate pinches (thumb/pinch)
• Thick bar work (open hand)
• Farmer's carries (grip endurance)

Injury Prevention Stack:

• No Hang (controlled loading)
• Finger extensor work (rubber bands)
• Rice bucket exercises
• Wrist mobility
• Adequate rest

Rehab Stack (Post-Injury):

• Very light No Hang (rebuilding)
• Gradual progression
• Finger glides and mobility
• Professional guidance recommended