Summary
Chris Hampton and Nate Drolet share their favorite hangboard protocols for building finger strength in climbing. They cut through the noise of principle-only videos and "just be consistent" advice to give specific, tested protocols that have actually worked for them and their athletes.
Key Points
- Repeaters protocol (7 seconds on, 3 seconds off, 6 reps per set) is one of the most effective beginner-friendly hangboard protocols for finger strength.
- Max hangs (10-second holds at near-max load for 3-5 sets with 3-minute rest) build peak finger strength most efficiently for intermediate-to-advanced climbers.
- Adding weight to hangboard hangs is more effective than reducing edge size for progressive overload -- it's easier to dose and track.
- Hangboard training 2-3x per week is sufficient; more frequent sessions risk overuse injuries in the finger pulleys and tendons.
- Consistency over months matters more than protocol selection -- most well-structured hangboard programs produce similar gains when followed for 8+ weeks.
- Beginners should start with bodyweight hangs on larger edges before progressing to added weight or smaller holds to build tendon resilience.
Key Moments
I actually look back when you sent it to me
It's some account sharing a workout from an elite athlete, but then they forget to mention who the person is. I actually look back when you sent it to me.
"It's not normally them. It's some account sharing a workout from an elite athlete, but then they forget to mention who the person is. And it looks wacky. Like we, you had just sent one the other day and it's funny. I actually look back when you sent it to me."
So next one I'm going to bring up is six and ten repeaters
So next one I'm going to bring up is six and ten repeaters. This one was popularized by Will Anglin.
"So next one I'm going to bring up is six and ten repeaters. This one was popularized by Will Anglin. Six seconds on, ten seconds off for reps of five. I like using like three total sets for one grip and then maybe one to two for your accessory grip. Now, this one I don't program often. I think it's from what I've seen, one of the more beneficial for max finger strength is But man, it just absolutely tanks you."
So in 2008, during the recession, she loses her job
It's by a woman named Jennifer Reese. So in 2008, during the recession, she loses her job.
"It's by a woman named Jennifer Reese. And in this book, she makes literal this idea of is the juice worth the squeeze? So in 2008, during the recession, she loses her job. Her husband's still working. They've got kids. And she's like, well, we got to save money. And she kind of has this inspiration at one point. I think she was a blogger already at that point."
Um, some people call them density hangs
Um, it's not the sexy, like, Oh, look how much weight I'm hanging kind of a hang, but the, the long duration hangs the 20 to 30 seconds sort of finger health sessions or tendon health sessions.
"Um, it's not the sexy, like, Oh, look how much weight I'm hanging kind of a hang, but the, the long duration hangs the 20 to 30 seconds sort of finger health sessions or tendon health sessions. Um, some people call them density hangs. I'm not a fan of that term simply because density is a It means too many things when you're talking about physical training."
